Tips for using purchased patterns

I have been doing some "me time" sewing this week. Not sewing for me, but working on a project I've wanted to do for a long time...and trying to do it the right way... AND watching one of my favorite movies, Pride and Prejudice. 

I bought this pattern, called the Puppet Show Tunic, last summer from Oliver + S. I loved the design, and I am also a sucker for pretty packaging.  It's definitely a more difficult pattern, and had techniques I wanted to learn.  (I also keep saying "it's a tyoo-nick" to myself from the line in "Night at the Museum 2".)

I'm still working on things, but I wanted to share a few tips and tricks.  First, to preserve your pattern investment, trace the size you want to use onto tissue paper.  This preserves all the sizes so you can use the pattern multiple times...and if you're into ebay, patterns that are not cut are a lot more valuable. 

Second, to save money, if the pattern isn't offered in the size you want, but is close, you can actually draft your own using the original as a guide.

The pattern only came in size 2T-5...but Big Sis is a 7.  I used the same proportions, and made my own pattern.  To do this, you need a good ruler, like a quilting ruler.  Measure the differences between the different sizes for the pattern piece, then add that to the pattern and keep the same shape.  I wouldn't jump more than three sizes.  In this case, I made a size 7 from a size 2-5, and it worked great.  Plus, using tissue paper, I had the ability to start over if it didn't work. 

Another tip, use pattern marking tools.  I inherited these tracing tools from my great-grandmother.  I love using something she did...she was a fabulous seamstress. Way better than I am.  I have her tracing paper, a tracing wheel, and the "tack-it"   It allows you to mark both sides of a piece at once, as long as the tracing paper is folded so both sides have tracing medium.  This is ideal for marking darts and button placement.

Finally, an important step that I usually skip...make a "muslin".  Make a mock up of the garment you are wanting to make, using muslin or some other cheap fabric.  I used a sheet I found at our local thrift store.  This lets you play with the pattern, identify places that may be difficult or need some tailoring...and especially in this case, make sure I drafted the pattern in the right size for Sis.

 You can see I had a hard time keeping straight which side was "right" when I was sewing...white fabric on both sides is tricky!  The good news, the pattern will work well for Sis...and I've now cut out the real thing on the real fabric.

In case your wondering, the fabric is from Anna Maria Horner's Chocolate Lollipop line.  
I'll post photos when I'm done. 


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